Happy Halloween!
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As most of you know, pizza and I go back a long way. I’ll skip the thousands of words that I could write about actually eating the stuff and instead concentrate on making it. What started out as a fun and easy way to have friends over for dinner (A little known fact is that the very first meal I ever cooked for the Lovely Suse, a full two years before we started dating, was pizza. Little did she know what she was getting herself into.) turned into a full-blown obsession over the years. As some of the best in the business will tell you, pizza is an impossible thing to master. Working with live yeast, live dough, and in some cases, a live fire, perfection is a futile battle. Still, we continue to search for the magical combination that will give us that perfect puffy, charred, crispy, and soft goodness, and it’s a search I expect to continue for many years to come.
In the beginning, there was purchased dough. I used to live next door to a Bertucci’s, so when it was time to make pizza, paying $1.50 per dough was an easy and pretty tasty proposition. Even today, when I don’t have the time to make my own dough, I’ll happily buy some from my favorite local pizzeria. It’s certainly nothing to hide or be ashamed about. After all, these guys make dough every day and are pretty damn good at it. Eventually, it was time to make the plunge and try my hand at making it from scratch. I tried dozens of different recipes over the years, all which consist of various quantities of flour, water, yeast, salt, and in some cases, olive oil and sugar. None of them really came out that great, with pizzas coming out flat and hard, without much puffiness or flavor.
A new path began after reading Peter Reinhardt’s American Pie, considered by many to be the new bible of pizza making. I continally attempted to make the Neapolitan dough, which consists of just flour, water, salt, and yeast, and takes a full 24 hours to make. The dough is mixed on one day, put into the fridge to slowly ferment for a day, and then taken out a couple of hours before baking to rise. The flavor was great, but I still wasn’t getting the texture that I wanted. Some days it was good, some days not so much. And they still came out harder and flatter than I would have liked. For a couple of years I toyed with this recipe, sometimes adding a little more water, sometimes mixing and kneading by hand and sometimes using an electric mixer, letting it sit for longer before I put it in the fridge or before baking. Obviously, the variables are pretty infinite.
After spending some time on pizzamaking.com I discovered Caputo flour. It is an Italian “00″ flour milled especially for pizza, and of course, I had to try it. I ordered up 10 pounds from PennMac, and I was instantly thrilled with the results. The doughs came out softer and puffier, and I was finally getting somewhere. It also finally occurred to me that the recipes I was using all measure things in terms of “cups” or “tablespoons” which is an inherently inaccurate way to measure. For example, a cup of flour taken from the top of a bag will actually weigh less than a cup taken from the bottom, as the stuff on the bottom is compacted. It was time to start using a scale to accurately measure all of my ingredients, so I could at least start elimating a few variables from the equation. I also learned about hydration percentages. and that mine were far too low. Basically, you measure water as a percentage of flour, so using 300 g. of flour and 300 g. of water would give you a hydration of 100%. Having more water in a dough will give a softer and puffier crust. Think: water turns into steam in the oven, expands, makes the crust puff up, etc. Duh. Next, came this recipe that I played around with a bunch, but in the end, my oven just couldn’t produce the results that I wanted.
Ah, the oven. Oh how I wish I could build a $5000 wood burning oven in my backyard, but that won’t be happening anytime in the near future. Instead I’m stuck with my crappy electric oven that can barely get up to 500 degrees. One of the keys of a great pizza is a very hot oven that can bake a pizza fast enough to fully cook the toppings and the crust before drying everything out. That’s how the insides if the crust will be soft like good bread and the outside will be crispy. I’ve tried all sorts of configurations to try to bake at a higher temperature than my oven can do on its own. Of course I use a pizza stone, but I’ve tried stacking unglazed quarry tiles on top and on the sides to try to create some sort of cooking chamber, I’ve used the broiler to finish pizzas off, I’ve tried putting the stone in my gas grill, and yes, I’ve even cooked on an overturned preheated cast-iron pan placed under the broiler. While I’ve had limited success with most of them, they’re not consistent and they’re too much of a pain to deal with. I’d love to break my oven to allow me to cook with the cleaning cycle on (the temperatures apparently get up to 1000 degrees), but I’m not allowed to do that.
So where has all of this experimentation got me? Well, I’ve finally found a combination that consistently turns out really good pies, and ironically enough, it’s pretty simple.
First the dough. After realizing that I wasn’t cooking at high enough temperatures to make a good Neapolitan crust (only flour, water, salt, and yeast), I finally decided to go back to a more American-style crust that contains both olive oil and sugar. I also gave up trying to just use just the Caputo flour as I wanted something that was a little less delicate and more crispy. I’ve starting using the Lehmann Pizza Dough Calculator and the doughs have been coming out well. Here are the numbers that I use for making 3 doughs:
Flour (100%): 591.21 g | 20.85 oz | 1.3 lbs
Water (63%): 372.46 g | 13.14 oz | 0.82 lbs
IDY (.25%): 1.48 g | 0.05 oz | 0 lbs | 0.49 tsp | 0.16 tbsp
Salt (2%): 11.82 g | 0.42 oz | 0.03 lbs | 2.46 tsp | 0.82 tbsp
Oil (1%): 5.91 g | 0.21 oz | 0.01 lbs | 1.31 tsp | 0.44 tbsp
Sugar (1%): 5.91 g | 0.21 oz | 0.01 lbs | 1.48 tsp | 0.49 tbsp
Total (167.25%): 988.8 g | 34.88 oz | 2.18 lbs | TF = N/A
Single Ball: 329.6 g | 11.63 oz | 0.73 lbs
I still use some of the Caputo flour, but only for about 25% of the total flour weight. For the rest, I use King Arthur bread flour. I use filtered room temperature water, SAF instant dry yeast, Morton’s Kosher salt, olive oil and granulated sugar. I mix it in an electric mixer, first putting the water, about 75% of the flour, and the yeast in, mixing for a couple of minutes, and then covering the bowl and letting it sit for 20 minutes. This autolyse period helps the flour start to absorb the water and lets the gluten development begin. Then I slowly mix in the rest of the flour, salt, sugar, and oil and knead it for about 10 minutes. The dough will be sticky, sticking to the bottom of the bowl a bit. It will be wetter than you expect, and this is a good thing. Hello hydration! While it is very wet, it also needs to be strong. If you can’t stretch it and it just falls apart, it needs to be kneaded more or it might need a little more flour. When it feels good (like a baby’s butt), I cover it and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then, I flour the counter and do a little kneading by hand. After a few minutes, I cut it into 3 equal sized balls and place them in oiled plastic containers. Into the fridge they go until just before i’m ready to use them. Keeping them cold allows the flavors to develop, but it keeps the yeast from going crazy and raising the dough before you need it. A couple of hours before you’re ready to cook, take them out of the fridge and let them come to room temperature. They’ll start to rise and they might pop the tops off your containers due to the gases that the yeast is producing. The initial mixing can be done the day before you plan to use it, or you can simply do it the same day, as I’ve been doing recently. The more time it spends in the fridge, the better it will taste.
Ok, now to the cooking. But not so fast. The oven and the pizza stone need to be preheated, on the highest temperature that the oven can go, for at least an hour. Since I have an electric stove, I can’t place the stone directly on the oven floor as that’s where the heating element is. Your stone would get superheated and the pizzas would completely burn on the bottom and stick to the stone within a minute. I learned this the hard way the first couple of times I used this oven. If you have a gas oven, feel free to put the stone on the oven floor. After the initial pre-heat, my next “a ha!” moment comes into play. If I turn the broiler on and leave it on for a while, the temperature of the stone rises by about 40 or 50 degrees. If I leave the broiler on while cooking, the pie will heat quicker from the top and the bottom. This cuts down the cooking time, and it also helps to achieve those nice bubbles in the crust.
For my sauce, I keep it simple. A pizza sauce should be uncooked as it will cook in the baking process. I use good canned tomatoes, salt, pepper, fresh basil and oregano, and a little red wine vinegar if necessary. It all depends on the acidity of the tomatoes. I put it all in a bowl and blend it quickly with a stick blender. I use fresh whole milk mozzarella cut or torn into small chunks, and before I slide the pie into the oven, i sprinkle it with grated pecorino.
The rest of the toppings are up to you, obviously, but the current rotation includes the stardard margarita (sauce, cheese, fresh basil), the Sonny Boy (sauce, cheese, olives, finocchiona salami), the Rosa (no sauce, olive oil, red onion, parmesan, pistachios, rosemary, and little mozzarella), mushroom (sauce, cheese, mixed wild sauteed mushrooms with garlic and fresh thyme), artichoke (sauce, cheese, lemon-braised artichokes with garlic and thyme), zucchini (sauce, cheese, shaved zucchini, zucchini flowers), white clam (no sauce, olive oil, raw shucked whole clams, garlic, oregano, mozzarella, parmesan), and white anchovy (same at the white clam but with white anchovies). While I can take credit for some of these, most are borrowed from much greater pizzaiolos. I simply try not to foul up the greatness of the original.
The stretching of the dough should be done by hand. Never use a rolling pin as this squeezes out all of the beautiful hole structure that you’ve worked so hard to put into it. The dough should stretch easily, leave it a bit thicker on the edge to get that nice outer crust, and then put it onto a pizza peel that has had some flour rubbed into it. The dough should be able to slide easily on the peel. Dress the dough, slide it onto the stone, and in about 8 minutes, you should have a beautiful looking pie. It should be slightly charred and crispy on the bottom, the crust should be a nice golden brown, and the toppings and cheese should be bubbly. Eat.
So these are my secrets. I don’t claim to be an expert, nor do I guarantee that this will work 100% of the time. Maybe the humidity will make your dough come out weird, or maybe this batch of flour is a little different than your last batch. Purists may scoff at some of the methods or ingredients that I use, but too bad. More than anything, this is just a way for me to document what is working at this moment in time. I almost always have some criticism of my pizzas, but right now, I’m actually happy with them. They’re not perfect, but I don’t really ever want them to be. What fun would that be? Where’s the challenge in that?
I have given you the tools. Now go make me proud.